f) 1930 to 1949:  A map from 1938 shows clearly that industrialisation east of Barking Creek and around Creekmouth, had progressed from the above period and the area was becoming considerably built up. Development was centred around the north-south positioned River Road. During this period the Scrattons Farm Housing Estate, north-east of the LTSR was the most notable development. A later map from 1939 shows there were still marshland parcels between the A13 (East Ham and Barking By-pass) and the LTSR. These extended south of the railway to the Thames. Pylons were now transversing east-west over the north-east of the area [OS Essex Sheet LXXXVII.5, Rev. 1939]. In 1940 the marshland north of the Thames seawall (east of the power station) was much as it had been for centuries before, in parcels surrounded by ditches and dykes. Additionally, the Thameside mudflats were much as they are today, however, Horseshoe Corner was still undeveloped [OS Revision of 1940 Essex Sheet LXXXVII.9]. A revision of the last document in 1949 shows that very little development had occurred in 9 years (possibly as a result of the war). Figure 3.2(c) shows the path of Ripple Lane in 1921. By 1949 most of the marshland parcels between the lane and Thames had been lost through development of one sort or another [OS Revised 1949 (from 1940) Essex Sheet N LXXXVI.12]. An aerial photograph taken during the 2nd. world war (1941) by a German warplane confirms many of the observations, gathered from maps, described above: There were still extensive areas of marshland parcels evident. Horseshoe Corner itself and the land to the north of it, still appeared to be undeveloped. The tract of land between the power station and Ripple lane was mostly developed (or dumped upon). Additionally, bomb crators were clearly visible. The Ford Motor Company and Barking's Thameside power stations must have been priority targets for the German bombers.

 

The Land Drainage Act of 1930 brought Barking Levels under the control of the Essex Rivers Catchment Board which by an Act of 1948 was merged in the Essex Rivers Board. The Act of 1930 empowered the catchment boards to levy rates from upland areas, not themselves subject to flooding, as well as from the marshland tenants [Pugh 1966].

 

Throughout the period cattle were grazed on the marshland area by Mr. Rhodes the tenant farmer of the time. He took up the tenancy around 1930/31 [Billington 1990].

 

 

g) 1950 to 1964:  In 1950 the most of Ripple Level and its marshland parcels were intact, largely unchanged from (at least) the mid-18th. century. Encroachment by housing and industry remained mostly at the perimeter (see figure 3.2(d)):   The LTSR and high tension power lines transversed the north of the area. Scrattons Farm Housing Estate, situated in the north-east, was prominent. The River Road Industrial Estate and the power stations dominated the western margin. Additionally, council allotments covered a large area of the north-west marsh and most of the central area (west of Renwick Road). Horseshoe Corner remained undeveloped [OS Sheet TQ48 SE (1950) 6" : mile]. Thus, the scene was set for the rapid change that was to take place. Included in this period was the demise of Creekmouth Village, the building of a massive rail marshelling yard south-west of the Scrattons Farm Housing Estate, centred on the LTSR, and most significantly the dumping of industrial and household waste over specific (but large) areas of the marshland. The  construction of the massive Thames View Housing Estate (in the north-west of the area) and the diversion westward of the Goresbrook, also took place in this period. Although the exact time the Goresbrook was diverted cannot be pinpointed, a survey of 1961 shows that by this time the stream, was already running westward of its earlier course [OS TQ4883 SE 1962].

 

By 1964 all the marsh, west of Renwick Road, had disappeared as a result of power station activities such as coal storage and dumping of waste products. Also, no marshland parcels were now visible [OS Sheet TQ48 SW]. By now there were some signs of dumping immediately east of Renwick Road. An aerial photograph c.1958, looking eastwards from the marshelling yard towards Grays, clearly shows trees at the south of the centre of the eastern section. The local council had also began to use the area west of (the now diverted) Goresbrook, as a dump. It was evident that where the brook splits into two arms and rejoins (just north of the Thames) there was no dense covering of reeds, between the streams, as there is today. Thus a clue is given regarding the recent nature of this 'island'. It seems likely there were two main reasons why the Goresbrook was diverted: 1) to allow drainage and reclamation of Horseshoe Corner into which it once flowed; 2) to act as a drain for leachate from the newly sited, and expanding, council tip. From the photograph, cattle can be made out grazing the surviving marshland [Aerial Photograph c.1958]. The cattle were owned by Mr. G.C. Billington, a cattle and dairy farmer. He took over the tenancy of the land, for grazing, from Mr. Rhodes in 1954. He has been referred to as the 'Marsh Warden' but infact enjoys no special rights. While a specific area of marshland was being subjected to dumping, it was fenced off to prevent the herd (of typically 50 to 70 animals) straying onto it [Billington 1990].

 

 

h) 1965 to 1979:  This period was characterised by little further building within the old Ripple Marsh area compared with earlier in the century. Instead, great sections of the remaining marsh were subjected to the dumping of industrial, commercial and household waste. Some tips that were started a number of years before were already deserted. Recolonisation by plants had began. In 1965 all the marshland west of Renwick Road had been dumped upon. A narrow strip just east of the road, between it and the north-south track, was also being used as a dump. Just west of Horseshoe Corner the council tip was clearly evident. Throughout this period Mr. Billington continued to graze his cattle on suitable areas.

 

Prior to the first of April 1974 the Levels at Barking had been under the Essex River Board. On that date control passed to the Thames Water Authority [Howson c.1982].

 

A map from 1975 indicates there was dumping of various materials taking place, south of the main east-west dyke, down to the Thames seawall [OS Sheet TQ48 SE 1975]. By the close of this period (ie. 1979) only 11 acres (4.5 ha) of the original grazing marsh remained. This was located on two sites: 1) just south of the marshelling yard (2.2 acres (0.9 ha)); and 2) 0.25 km east of Renwick Road (9.2 acres (3.7 ha)). These areas were to persist into the 1990's virtually unaltered [Vickers D. 1990]. The development of Barking Levels can be followed in figures 3.2 (a) to (e).

 

 

3.3 COMMUNICATIONS AND SETTLEMENT

  

a) 1066 to 1499:  There are only a few references to communications, concerning Barking Marshes, from this period. Obviously, there must have been lanes and tracks into the marsh, as sheep and cattle would have been transported from one place to another. There must too have been routes open to take materials to the seawalls to maintain and make the necessary repairs.

 

It is assumed below that most of the main routes shown on the Chapman and Andre´ map of 1777 (see figure 3.2(b)) had changed little from the 15th. century. This is given credence by the antiquity of some of the road and place names and the fact that by 1777 they appeared very well established.

​

It seems the main marshland thoroughfare was Ripple Street (later known as  Road) that ran east-west along the northern margin. From Ripple Street direct or indirect links to London and the rest of Essex existed. In 1433 it was said to have been connected to Wood Lane, in the north, via Gale Street [Pugh 1966]. Ripple Street itself ran from Barking in the west to the ancient manor of Cockermouth in the east (now the Chequers Lane region). From the Chapman and Andre´ map of 1777  it can be seen Barking was linked to Becontree Heath and Hainault. The route veered north-east from Barking village towards the Heath. In 1452 this part of the route was known as 'the lane leading from Smalwelcrouch', in 1609 the western section was called 'Smallwell Lane' (later Longbridge Road) and the eastern section 'Wood Lane' in 1563. At Becontree Heath the route went northwards towards Hainault Forest. In 1641 it was known as 'Beamsland Lane' (later Whalebone Lane) [Reaney 1969]. The 1777 map also shows an indirect connection between Barking and the main (Roman) London to Colchester Road via Ilford. Some of the names in the route date back to the 14th century eg. North Street (Barking) is 'Northstrete' in 1328 [Reaney 1969]. From the Cockermouth end of Ripple Street, Chapman and Andre´ shows, Dagenham could be reached by way of Broad Street (so called in 1777) and Church Elm Lane (1555) [names: Reaney 1969].

 

 

b) 1500 to 1699:  From the Exchequer Land Revenue [t. of 1609 document] mention is made of routes running from Ripple Street southwards into the marsh. From the descriptions it seems these may have been references to the lanes depicted in the 1740 Commissioners of Sewers map (see figure 3.2(a)) and later called Choats Manor Way and Ripple Lane (later still Renwick Road). In the 1650's the latter was known as 'Muggs Lane' [Vickers I. 1990]. Another north-south route ending at Creekmouth was made reference to during the demolition of the Abbey in 1540 [Pugh 1966]. It seems the road had to be repaired as so much stone, from the building, was carted southwards to Creekmouth and loaded in luggers. These shipped it down stream to Dartford where it was used to construct a new house for the king. One possible route taken by this road may have been: southwards from the Abbey, via Manbrigge Strete  to the edge of the marsh, over the Mayesbrook at its confluence with Barking Creek at Kingsbridge (named in 1609) and then along the seawall that ran more or less parallel with the Creek. Manbrigge was so named in 1321 (Strete 1456) [Reaney 1969] later this was called Fisher Street [Vickers I. 1991] and later still is the probable route of Abbey Road south. Fisher Street was once wrongly thought to be 'Fysshrowe' (of 1456) but new evidence suggests the latter was actually near the market in Barking.c) 1700 to 1849:  The main routes to and from Barking Level (ie. Marshes) are shown on the Chapman and Andre´ map of 1777 (figure 3.2(b)). As explained earlier, many of the routes shown on the map had probably been in those positions for at least  200 to 300 years. The 1777 map, however, fails to show the routes through the marshland. The Commissioners of Sewers Survey map [1740] clearly illustrates the marshland lanes. The section above (1500 to 1699) suggests that these routes were already in place prior to the start of this period. Maps from the 19th. century show the same routes in use then. From Ripple Street, the main east-west thoroughfare at the northern margin of the marsh, several roads headed south into the area. In the far east of Ripple Level was the road later known as 'Choats Manor Way'. It headed southwards to Horseshoe Corner (then called Stacobrack Reed Shore) then veered westward joining Ripple Lane. A little west of 'Choats Manor Way' was a second southbound lane branching from Ripple Street that apparently extended only half way down the marshland before coming to a halt, a third route headed southwards from Ripple Street (in the western half of Ripple Level). This was Ripple Lane. Just before it veered westwards it was joined by 'Choats Manor Way'. Similar southbound routes into Eastbury and Westbury Levels existed eg. via Vineyard Lane (later called King Edwards Road). Athough Fisher Street  extended from the Town Quay to the marshland edge, no marshland road to Creekmouth could be discerned on the 1740 maps. In 1810 the 'New Road' as it was called was constructed by the Tilbury Fort Turnpike Trust. It ran from Tilbury to London. In the area of the Barking Marshes  Ripple Road (formally Street) formed part of its route. The New Road greatly improved communications in the area [Howson c.1982].

 

Immediately south of Ripple Road, virtually along its entire length, there were a number of farms. These appear in both the 1740 and 1777 maps. Some of these farms had their origins in the area as early as the 14th. century (these are dealt with in greater detail in 'd' below). It seems likely that some of these produced vegetables for the ever growing London market of the time.

 

The Ship and Shovel inn situated on the corner of Ripple Road and Ripple Lane probably had its licence dating from 1740. Then it was a small house that was later destroyed by fire and another constructed on the site [Frogley 1912].

 

Industrialisation of the marshes began during this period. A gunpowder magazine was started in 1719. This was to survive until after the first world war [Old OS Survey Maps, repub. 1989].

 

 

d) 1850 to 1899:  One major road development was to take place during this period, an extension to Movers Lane. This was to connect Barking with the new village sited at Creekmouth. It headed southwards across the west of Barking Levels approximately parallel to Barking Creek. Until 1893/4 there had been no paved road in the village [Old OS Maps, repub. 1989]. In 1896 the Engineer of the Essex Sewers Commission, when referring to the new road, was reported to have said"...if its construction is completed by the end of the year they would be delighted" [B.E. & I.A., no. 383, 1896]. The new road was called River Road. In the north-west of the area, between Fisher Street and King Edwards Road, a housing estate was constructed between 1880 and 1900 [Pugh 1966] (in the late 1960's to early 1970's this was replaced with the Gascoigne housing estate).

 

The Lawes Chemical Manure Company was opened at Creekmouth in 1857. By 1893 it employed 400 men. In 1889 there were 55 houses in Creekmouth and a population of 210 (or 250 if the Frogley account of 1912 is taken). Many of the villagers were employed by Lawes. The Crooked Billet PH originated as a wooden cottage around 1860 on the western side of River Road. Later it was moved to larger premises on the other side of the road. A church mission room (St. Pauls) and a church school were opened in 1894 [Old OS Maps, repub. 1989]. Creekmouth had its own constable, who joined the Met. in 1865 and was transferred to the village in 1870 [Frogley 1912]. As well as Lawes and the village there were other units at Creekmouth east of the chemical company: the Barking Guano Works was opened in 1878, there was also a coastguard station, and the powder magazine [Walford, 1st. pub. 1884]. The latter example was 'privatised' in 1885. It was sold to the Creekmouth Gunpowder Company. Not suprisingly though, it was still guarded by soldiers. Barking Local Board, unsuccessfully, tried to close it down in 1888 [ibid].

 

On the 13th. of April 1854 the first completed section of the London, Tilbury and Southend Railway (LTSR) was opened. It ran from Forest Gate (in East London) through to Tilbury (in Essex) from Bishopsgate and Fenchurch Street. The railway branched off the Eastern Counties Railway (ECR) near Stratford and crossed the entire length of the marshes between Barking and Tilbury. It was regarded as a remarkable feat of engineering. The route itself was authorised jointly by the ECR and the London and Blackwell Railway (LBR). It was first known as the 'London, Tilbury and Southend Extension' a name very near its final form the LTSR [Searle 1984].

 

The OS map of 1897 (figure 3.2(b)) clearly shows the route taken by the LTSR over Barking Marshes. It also shows a number of farms and cottages north of the railway and immediately south of Ripple Road. Most of these appear to be present on the 1740 and 1777 maps (see previous period) but of course it is not possible to know if they are the same buildings. The names of some of the farms indicate antiquity eg. Osborne's Farm is probably associated with the family of Henry Osebarn (1327); Maybells is land called Maybill, Maybil, Mabill, Mabill Godland, Godland in 1452 (meaning Good land), farm or graunge called Maybells in 1578, and Maybells in 1586, the original name is associated with the family of William Fity Maybel; Moggs Farm is associated with the family of Emma Mog (1332); 'Merrielands' is a relatively modern name for an old farm, in 1452 it was known as 'Cockermouth' and was associated with the manorial name of John de Cokermuth (1321), in 1616 it is Cockermore. Regarding the last example, the story behind the name is quite interesting: in 1823 the farm was owned by Rowland Stephenson the 'Fugitive Banker' he went bankrupt and fled to America. The farm was resold and re-named America Farm, this was changed to Merrielands by W. Varco Williams around 1890-96 [Reaney 1969].

 

 

e) 1900 to 1929:  The pace of road building accelerated during this period. The OS map of 1916 shows part of Ripple Lane (that runs east-west parallel to the Thames) joined in the south by a track that was later to become an extension of River Road. Ripple Lane then veered to the north to join Ripple Road [OS Essex New Series Sheet NLXXXV.12]. This section of the lane was to become Renwick Road in the years to follow. By 1921 River Road was extending to the Guano Works east of Creekmouth with a well developed track continuing from its end to the site where the power station was to be built [OS Sheets 1921, 6": mile]. One possiblity is the track was used for the transportation of materials for the preparation of the site. In 1923-24 There was an acquisition of a strip of land by the local council (from J. John Masters) for the widening of River Road [Barking UDC minutes]. The Council minutes of 1928-29 record the County of London asking if the Council would give permission for them to construct a level crossing over a private road that ran parallel to the Thames, north of the newly constructed power station (covered below). The Council later agreed, this road was later to become another section of River Road (ie. the section immediately west of its joining with Renwick Road). On Friday the 25th. of May 1928 the Barking By-pass was opened. It was 2/3 rds. of a mile shorter than the old road and 50 feet wide. It ran for 3½ miles from Toll Gate, Prince Regent Lane to the Thatched House, Barking [D.P. and B.R.G., Vol. VIII, No. 327, 1/6/28]. The terraced houses and roads, east of King Edwards Road, were constructed from 1920 onwards [Pugh 1966].

 

Creekmouth village continued to develop. The church school (started in 1894) was replaced with a local board school. In 1901 it was situated north of the old site. Sir Henry Hadow [1932] tells of the opening of the Creekmouth school in 1895. Whether this referred to the church school or the new local board school is not made clear. Perhaps the two ran in competition for a short while. St. Pauls Church Mission (started in 1894) was closed around 1928.

 

The plans for a power station at Barking were formulated early on. The Council minutes of 1919-20 record "the Council continue their electrification program in conjuction with other localities. This will do until 1924-25 by which time it was probable there would be established a large generating station on the north side of the Thames." Between 1922-23 the Electricity Station, County of London, received the consent of the Electricity Commissioners to build the station at Barking. The Council was asked by them, to convey to them a strip of land forming the site of River Road from a point eastwards. A permanent road was shown on the plan with a footpath and proposed temporary road. Lawes Chemicals were given notice of the plans. A 75 yards (_69 metres) of river wall had to be diverted as a result (by Lawes). A new sewer system was later jointly laid by the Council and Lawes [Barking UDC minutes]. Barking Power Station was opened by H.M. King George V with a ceremony held on the 19th. of May 1925 [CLESCL 1925]. It occupied a site slightly east of the Guano works at Creekmouth. The power station was to become the largest in Europe. It had an initial output of 100,000 kW [B.E.& I. A 3/2/34].

 

A comparison of figures 3.2(b) and (c), the OS maps from 1897 and 1921, make clear the extent of marshland development during this period. New industries continued to appear on the marshes: From 1909 to 1912 Sir Frederic Handley Page was building aeroplanes in second hand hut near Creekmouth, they were the first premises fitted out in Britain exclusively for aeroplane manufacture [Howson c.1982]. The degree of expansion and growing importance of Creekmouth as an industrial centre is indicated in the next two examples: The London Butcher Hide and Skin Co. sent the local council a letter regarding the urgent need for sewering in the Creekmouth area [Barking UDC minutes 1917-18]; and in 1919-20 the Council received a request for lighting in River Road by Daniel de Pass Trust Co. Ltd. However, not all industry was successful eg. the gunpowder magazine finally closed after the first world war [Old OS Maps, repub. 1989]. The east of Ripple levels never completely escaped industrialisation during this period. OS maps from 1921 shows there was a sewage works operated by Romford RDC just south of the LTSR and immediately east of the Barking-Dagenham urban district boundary [OS Sheets, 1921, 6": mile].

 

Although dumps of Victorian and Edwardian bottles etc. occur near the allotments west of Renwick Road, the first reference to the dumping of waste on the marshland comes from the Council minutes of 1927-28. The Allotments Sub-committee (of the Council) recommended that low lying land, that was prone to flooding, should be 'made up' with house refuse and road sweepings then covered with one foot of earth. The land concerned was parts of that previously purchased from Sir H.J. Hulse for 'permanent' allotments (see section 3.2 e). The Council minutes of 1928-29 record that arrangements had been made for road sweepings to be distributed to allotment holders.

 

f) 1930 to 1949:  A site plan from 1934 depicts River Road running west-east, between the power station itself and Ripple lane. The plan makes it obvious that the road at this point and time cannot have been an established thoroughfare [The Engineer, 1934]. Four years later  an OS map shows River Road was now connected to, and almost as an extension of, the north-south section of Ripple Lane. The east-west part of the lane leading to Creekmouth was still clearly visible having so far escaped development. The two tracks (that now (1991) lead from the style opposite the switching station) were present. One track veered off to the north-west of this section of the site (ie. east of Renwick Road), the other track headed towards the central region [OS Sheets 1938, 6": mile]. By 1941 the west-east orientated section of Ripple Lane was becoming fragmented due to the overspill of development in the south (near the power station). There was, however, no such parallel development around Choats Manor Way west of Renwick Road [London-Dagenham Hauptwerk Der Ford Motor Co" 1941].

 

Scrattons Farm Housing Estate was erected in 1939. It was located between the A13 and the LTSR near the Barking-Dagenham border. 282 dwellings were built [Barking Council Permanent Dwellings List]. An OS map of 1939 shows the eastern part of the estate already constructed [OS Rev. 1939 Essex Sheet LXXXVIII 9]. The revised map of ten years later shows the estate had now extended westward. By 1938 industrialisation west and south of River Road had progressed and in parts the area was now considerably built up. Industry was now too, reaching along the east and north of the road to Creekmouth village [OS Sheets 1938. 6": mile]. In 1949 it was clear that most of the marshland parcels south of Ripple Lane had succomb to development. There was also, almost continuous buildings northward along River Road other than a gap of around 200 metres to the north of the Crooked Billet PH. In 1939 there had only been a few industrial units between the A13 and LTSR, by 1949 an increase was evident. However, there were still considerable areas of undeveloped marshland present [OS Revised 1949 Essex Sheet N. LXXXVI.12].

 

Barking power station continued to expand. Station 'B' east of the original unit, was opened in 1934. This increased the generating capacity to 390,000 kW. Over 3,000 square miles (7,770 square km) of the Country was now drawing its electricity from Barking [B.E. & I.A., 3/2/34]. By 1934 certain materials were being deposited on the marshland surface (by the power station). Between Ripple lane and the power station there was an ash dump. Immediately north of both there was a large coal reserve [The Engineer 1934]. An aerial photograph taken in 1941 seems to indicate that the ash dumps and coal reserves were now covering a more extensive area than they previously had in 1934. These were centred around River Road (to the north of the generating station) [London-Dagenham, Hauptwerk Der Ford Motor Co." 1941]. During this period there were two seemingly conflicting ways of disposing of pulverised fuel ash (PFA): 1) 'a further advantage of a river site is the ashes, which rarely have any commercial value and which, at Barking, amount to more than 1/7 th. of the coal burned, can be disposed of more easily usually by loading into barges for dumping at sea' [The Engineer 1934]; 2) Ash pits from each boiler will be large enough to contain 18 hours make of ashes, and as a market exists for the ashes, arrangements have been made so that the ash pits can be discharged direct into railway wagons [CLESCL 1931]. Whether these quotes are referring to the disposal of different grades of ash or if there is some other reason for the discrepancy has not been established. One theory (forwarded by the author) is large scale dumping did not occur in the area until station 'C' came on line (see below). For certain though, the assumptions made by Evironmental Resourses Ltd. (re: 5.9.2) in calculating the extent of PFA deposits at Barking Reach cannot be wholly correct. Towards the end of this period the third station 'C' was under construction, This would add to 'A' and 'B' to increase the generating capacity in the future. Station 'C' was sited east af 'A' and 'B' [OS Revised 1949 Essex Sheet N XXXVI.12].

 

g) 1950 to 1964:  A 1½ mile section of Ripple Road from Lodge Avenue, Barking to Chequers Lane, Dagenham was widened into a dual carriageway and two cycle tracks [D.P. & B.G. (No 1866) 25/2/59]. Without a doubt this was the most major development during this period (not  including the  laying  out  of new Thames  Veiw Estate).The OS map of 1950 (figure 3.2(d)) portrays the northern part of Renwick Road (from just south of the LTSR to the Ship and Shovel PH) in broken lines. Additionally, it was named the 'Grass Road' presumably, at the time the road was not hard surfaced and probably little more than a marshland lane. Thames Road was to become of great importance in the development of the marshland. On the map it can be seen extending eastwards from River Road into Barking Level. In later years this was to be the centre of an industrial estate (cf. River Road) but only one building was present in 1950 [OS 1950 Sheet TQ48 SE 6": mile].

 

A huge railway marshelling yard costing £190,000 was opened in 1958. It consisted of 53 sidings and could accommodate 162 wagons. It stretched from Renwick Road eastwards to Dagenham Dock [D. & B.P., No: 2199, 1/9/65]. At the time of writing (1991) this is still a prominent feature occupying a large area north-east of the Barking Reach. Since those early days it has been modified to handle containers.

 

Back in July 1949 Barking Council were discussing the possibility of using 160 acres (64 ha) of marshland, immediately south of the By-pass and east of River Road, for housing purposes. However it was not until September 1953 that they entered into negotiations with Charlton Contractors Limited, for the erection of the first 113 dwellings on the site. By the 12th. of June 1954, when the estate opened, there were 1,700 dwellings plus. Included were schools, a church, clinic, shopping area and open spaces [Charlton 1954]. In 1966 the VCH (Vol.V) records that building continued until 1960, and that now the estate comprised of over 2,000 homes. Of note too (other than its size) was its location. Marshland had previously been thought of as unsuitable for housing but it was reclaimed via piles and rafts [Pugh 1966]. Because of its proximity to the Thames it was named the 'Thames View Estate'.

 

Creekmouth Village declined during the 1950's. The Little Mission Church of St. Paul closed in 1957. It was used in the war as an ARP station but reinstated after [B.E. & I.A. (No. 3033) 9/2/57]. The Dagenham Post and Becontree Guardian also reported the demise of the village 'The last links with the fishing village of Creekmouth are being severed. Slowly the village is being reduced to a pile of rubble. The old missionary church has been flattened to the ground. The sunday school is now being demolished and its only shop 'Bones' Stores has now been given the death sentence for the march of industry, in its search for land, is now swallowing up the remaining cottages, leaving only the Crooked Billet. Many of the villagers have moved out of their cottages. Some were glad to go to Thames View Estate nearby, for a more modern house, and to escape the constant threat of flooding from the Roding that joins the Thames at Creekmouth'. The article wrongly refers to Creekmouth as a 'fishing village' whereas its prime function was to serve Lawes Chemicals. It does though adequately document its last days. Four years earlier than the above, in 1953, the village of Creekmouth, then standing at,some 63 cottages owned by the Lawes Chemical Company Limited, was flooded during the 'Great Essex Flood', [B.E. & I.A. (No. 2877) 7/2/53]. 50 people were made homeless [Howson c. 1982]. No doubt this hastened the demise of the village. The flood, as its name suggests, also inundated many other low lying parts of the Essex coast (particularly Canvey Island). It was too, the last in a long line of such floods to breach the marshland sea defences in the Barking area (see 3.2).

 

The power station and its activities continued to expand throughout this period. The OS map of 1950 [Sheet TQ 48 SE, 6": mile] clearly shows station 'C' constructed. The area west of Renwick Road and north of Ripple Lane was still largely in marshland parcels, except for a large coal store immediately north of the power station. By 1961-62 there were steep embankments at the roadside, with tracks and lagoons in evidence indicating that dumping (of mostly PFA) had now reached a relatively advanced stage. Just west of Renwick Road, west and south of today's orchid site, two ponds were present [OS Large Scale 1961-62]. These may have been used to deposit PFA in, to prevent it being carried by the wind, a practice commonly used at such sites. Alternatively, it has been suggested they were used as reservoirs to supply the power station with water. It is the author's opinion the former is most probable. The OS of 1964 suggests no marshland parcels were still present west of Renwick Road by this time. The two ponds were still present. The CEGB switching station that was to be constructed in 1964 as yet was not shown (this was to be located north-west of the meeting of Renwick and River Roads, opposite the 'stile'). Some older maps (eg. that of 1950) show a rectangular parcel of marshland immediately north of the coal store, west of Renwick Road. Maps from 1964 onwards show a PFA lagoon of similar size and shape, but it is not in quite the same location. It lies slightly south of its 'old' position and now has steep embankments. The 1964 map itself seemingly indicates that this area may have been prepared for future dumping (possibly the floor was deepened by pushing the earth to the sides to form the steep embankments) [OS 1964, TQ 48 SW, 6": mile]. An aerial photograph from around 1958 [Valence House Museum] illustrated that PFA dumping east of Renwick Road had only just spilled over the first north-south track (leading from the stile). Lagoon type formations were clearly visible.

 

The local council had begun to use the area just west of Horseshoe Corner as a tip in the early 1950's. The site was controlled by the council for waste disposal. The waste was probably mainly of domestic refuse but exact records of the type of materials deposited are lacking. The early history of the site is equally unclear. It seems though dumping of this type continued from the early 1950's through to 1965 [Environmental Resources Ltd. 1988]. The aerial photograph from around 1958 [Valence House Museum] makes it quite clear that early dumping only took place in the eastern section of the tip adjacent to the newly diverted Goresbrook. The western part still had a small number of trees growing on it. The northern half of the site was not used for dumping until the 1970's. The photograph also shows a curious trapezium shaped marking on the northern part of the site. Just what it was could not be made out. It may be the remains of the old sewage works once operated by Romford RDC (see period 3.3 e), and then closed after the second world war. It is known that the old works was covered over when the when the tip was extended in the northern section.

 

 

h) 1965 to 1979:  No new roads of any significance appeared in this period, however, some ancient routes all but disappeared. The east-west section of Ripple Lane, rendered virtually unrecognisable during the last period, ceased to exist. Similarly, Choats Manor Way was largely buried under landfill. The latter route was located in the 'eastern section' of the marsh area (ie. east of Renwick Road).

 

In 1965 there was some doubt as to whether the Ripple Lane marshelling yard would continue [D. & B.P. No: 2199 1/9/65]. No reason was given why its future should be in balance, but it did continue to operate and still does at the time of writing (1991).

 

Other than the Gascoigne Housing Estate (built mid-60's to mid-70's), that replaced an earlier housing scheme in the north-west of the area, there were no developments of note of this type during this period (particularly on 'virgin' marshland). It will be seen though that future housing projects on previously undeveloped land were postulated.

 

Industry came and went: There was development east of the council tip, tanks and works had now appeared on the site [Fairly Survey Ltd. 1966], yet in July 1966 Lawes Chemicals went into liquidation after 109 years of operation in the area [B. & D.A.No: 3674 19/7/69].

 

The  power station and its activities continued to expand. An aerial survey from 1966 shows the massive rectilinear form of the CEGB switching station just north of the power station itself. An OS map of 1975 [TQ 48 SE, 1: 10,000] shows there were three power lines transversing the north of the area and that another was under construction. By  1979  all four  were  complete [OS 1979, TQ 48/58, 1: 25,000]. Additionally, various deposits were continuing to be dumped over an ever larger area of the marshes. Ironically, in the light of the 'Barking Reach' proposals of the late 1980's and 1990's, further expansion of the power station and housing development were being looked at as options for vacant land: An iterim report issued jointly by the working parties of the GLC, LBA and CEGB 'The Future of Electricity supplies in Greater London said "the London Borough of Barking and the CEGB should endeavour to reach a solution which would allow the siting of additional generating capacity in Renwick Road area, together with housing development- the whole being acceptable as a harmonious planning concept." Interestingly, although joint working party envisaged a conventional power station they believed in the foreseeable future a nuclear powered plant in a highly populated area would be possible.

 

The dumping of PFA and coal over the remaining open area west of Renwick Road was virtually complete before the close of the last period (1950 to 1964). The 1966 aerial survey shows the larger (most southerly) of the two ponds (represented on the maps of 1961 to 1964) immediately west of the road had already disappeared and was partly covered by the switching station development. The smaller pond to the north-west was still present and flooded (this was to become the wet area east of the city farm). There were also a few small trees on the dividing embankment of the pond and what was to become the 'copse'. No trees were yet visible in the area of the copse itself. A land use survey was conducted between 1960 and 1968 [Isle of Thanet Geographical Ass'n]: The copse area was designated as 'grass moor'. Considering it takes around three years for PFA to be colonised by plants to this stage, it follows that the dumping of material in this area probably ceased no later than the early 1960's. The same land use survey described the land west of the copse, up to and including the city farm site, as a 'tip'. The allotments of the western Reach are depicted in their present site, although by this time those in the southern half were referred to as 'grass moor' presumably already having degraded to this condition. Allotments were also shown north of Thames Road. Other land, including the future site of the central lagoon was designated 'public utilities'. It seems then, that dumping had already been discontinued over certain parts of the site, whereas in other areas it was still actively practised. By the close of the period, however, it is unlikely that the deposition of PFA and other materials was continuing on any significant scale west of Renwick Road.

 

The aerial [Fairly] survey of 1966 portrayed the extent of waste deposition east of Renwick Road: There was a lagoon, near the road, to the north-west of the open area, this was flooded in low lying areas. There was no obvious dumping immediately north of the Thames seawall (west of Horseshoe Corner). The part of the council tip site, north of the old Choats Manor Way route, had not yet been dumped upon, there were some small trees south of the site to become the central PFA ponds. Finally, most of the undeveloped marshland (of earlier times) that lay between the A13 and the LTSR had disappeared, covered by encroaching industry. The land use survey of 1960 to 1968 [Isle of Thanet Geographical Ass'n] designated Horseshoe Corner and the land north of it as 'commercial and residential'. The whole of the area of the council tip was designated a 'tip'. A strip of land to the north-west of the Thames seawall was shown as 'grass moor'. The area of the PFA dump to the north-east of Renwick Road was termed as 'grassland'. The OS of 1975 [TQ 48 SE, 1: 10,000] indicates that there were 'active workings' on a strip of land just north-west of the Thames seawall. The OS of four years later depicted similar areas a little further north, lying between the PFA pits (adjacent to Renwick Road) and the council tip [OS TQ 48/58, 1: 25,000]. 'active workings' in this instance referred to areas where dumping was in progress. Large quantities of brick, concrete, steel cable and other rubble were dumped in these workings. A thin covering of soil is still evident today (ie. 1991) but it is not deep enough to properly cover the contents: the surface is  rough and uneven with protrusions of 'hardcore'. Only two small areas of land have been shown to have escaped dumping (see 3.4(c). These areas are flat, low lying and prone  to flooding. Here  the 'original' grazing  marshland  floor is exposed [Vickers D. 1990]. The Renwick Road tip, as it became known (ie. the council tip) was controlled by the GLC between 1965 and 1975. During this time the filling of the site with domestic refuse continued. From 1975 to 1982 the site was 'restored' using imported inert fills. A licence was issued in 1977 and ammended in 1978 to allow the disposal of domestic waste, contaminated soil, and mines and quarries waste [Environmental Resources Ltd. 1988]. Other records show that 2% asbestos contaminated waste from Whiting Avenue, Barking was deposited in the landfill post-1978, in the southern part of the site. Licences were also issued (between 1977 and 1983) to allow the dumping of nickel compounds, household refuse and commercial silt and dredgings on unspecified CEGB land. There was too a PFA transfer site in River Road, licences were granted and regularly revised between  1978 and 1986 [Aspinwall Data 1990].

 

Dumping then, generally started later east of Renwick Road, than it did in the west and continued to a later date. However, The CEGB land east of the road was first used as a PFA dump back in the 1950's. It was both one of the earliest, and amongst the first of such dumps to have been deserted and thus, one of the earliest of such areas to be recolonised by plants . Grazing by cattle was continued over the whole site east of Renwick Road throughout the period (with areas of active workings  temporarily fenced off), Thus the establishment and maintenance of a rough grassland flora resulted. Conversely, in the section west of the road, grazing probably had ceased over the whole site by the mid-1950's. This meant that on its desertion as a PFA dump the colonisation of plants was able to proceed, unhindered by cropping, leading to the growth of trees and shrubs.

 

 

3.4 RECENT HISTORY (1980 TO 1990)

  

a) General:  Barking Power Station that had dominated the old marshland area for more than 50 years closed in October 1981. In 1982 it was manned only by a skeleton staff and used as a switching or relay station [D.& B.A. No: 4377 24/3/82]. It was not until 1988 though that the demolition of the main power station buildings commenced. However, the switching station itself was to remain. The CEGB owned around 400 acres (161 ha) of the 'Barking Reach' site. Firstly, the bulk of the land  was passed on  to its newly created division National Power in April 1990, it was subsequently privatised to become National Power PLC. The switching station and its immediate surrounds were to come under the control of National Grid PLC.

 

The council tip remained unused between 1982 and 1988 [Environmental Resourses Ltd. 1988] and to the author's knowledge has not been used since. It seems probable too, that any remaining active PFA dumps were closed with the power station.

 

The LBB & D Council minutes of January to June 1986 mention the Renwick Road to Dagenham Dock access road scheme. The road would run south of the LTSR and parallel to it. 'Stage One' of the project, as it was called, extended from Renwick Road to the council tip and 'stage two' from the tip to Chequers Lane. The Council minutes of July to December suggest the first stage was to be constructed during 1987 (it seems this was the case) stage two, as yet, has not been built. The LBB & D Council minutes of July to December 1988 tell of the proposed construction of around 1,180' (360 m) extension of Thames Road to link with Renwick Road. The road was built during 1988, most likely, towards the end of the year.

 

b) City Farm and Thameside Park:  Around the same time as the power station was closed down negotiations were underway to secure (at least on a short term basis) part of the area west of Renwick Road as a nature reserve, city farm and ecology park. A communication from around the time reads "Thames-side Park is located on 33 acres (13 ha) of CEGB (open) land west of Renwick Road and north (and east) of River Road. The CEGB licenced the land rent free; It is proposed the Park will house a 5.5 acre (2.2 ha) 'city farm' and a 27.5 acre (11.1 ha) 'nature reserve', part of the latter (a fly-ash tip area) is to be reclaimed and turned into a ecology park... the history of Thameside Park began in August 1981 when a steering committee was set up with the advise of Mrs. Stevens (the organiser of Barking VSO) then it was termed the 'Curzon Project' this was a local community organisation based in Thames View; the steering committee was composed of various Barking and Dagenham residents and local branches of charity status organisations (eg. FoE, WWF, LWT, Riding for the Handicapped and S.E. Essex Rabbit Fanciers Society).  Regarding the city farm, links have been forged with various groups for the less abled bodied and the scheme affiliated to the National Federation of City Farmers" [Watson B. (Feb.) 1983]. Many ideas and proposals were envisaged for the future of Thameside Park, and the city farm in particular. Amongst these were: horse and pony rides (including for the handicapped), road building, portable buildings (animal housing and activity centre). The Manpower Services Commission were to employ around 25 persons. The site was also to be used by the Probation Service. Activities for children were to be given a prominant place [Watson B (Jan.) 1983]. Most of these proposals were to become a reality. A park manager was appointed by the Thameside Park Association: Wendy Bomberg (she was elected as a local councillor in 1990). A report issued by the London Ecology Unit in 1988 stated that the land west of Renwick Road (ie. Thameside Park) was being managed as a nature reserve (and city farm) under a Community Programme scheme [Britton I]. There was no grazing so vegetation was relatively tall and there was some tree growth and scrub invasion. Conversely, the land east of Renwick Road, it has been mentioned (see 3.3(h)), continued to be grazed and was otherwise little managed. Thus grassland developed over the area. On the 30th. August 1986 the city farm was officially opened. Throughout the 1980's and into the 90's the park, and the  rest of the Reach, has been subjected to a number of surveys both to assess potential for future development (see chapter 4) and to try to establish conservation value. Thameside Park continues to today under a short term licence from National Power. Initially, it was proposed that when this area is developed, the site would be 'transferred' to the old council tip east of Renwick Road but now, it seems, the park will remain in its present location.

 

c) The Last Grazing Marsh:  Two areas of 'original marshland' have been identified at Barking Reach, both lay east of Renwick Road. The largest is located between the first and second tracks (see Main Reference Map, back cover). It has an overall area of around 9 acres (_ 3.5 ha). It is composed of three parts of ancient parcels of marshland. The histories of which can be dated back to the 17th century, but there is little doubt they originated significantly earlier than this. All three of the complete parcels at one time were under the ownership of Barking Manor, although they were tithed to the demense manor of Eastbury. For example, the 1740 Commissioners of Sewers Survey attributed ownership of these to Lady Humphreys (then the lord of the manor of Barking). The parcels were assigned tithe numbers: 1521, 1522 and 1523. In time these fields were to change hands and become the properties of a number of other landowners. All the marsh fields were worked by tenant farmers during the 17th. and 18th. centuries (and it is reasonable to assume both before and after too). Tenancies appear to have changed regularly and not passed on in families: between 1671 and 1751 (80 years) each marshland parcel had at least three tenants. There was a slight change in boundaries between 1727 and 1740 when field number 1522 was expanded slightly at the expense of 1521. Fuller details appear in Appendices D and E. Parts of these three parcels still exist today (1991) their extent is indicated in the main reference map (page 156) and figure 1(a). These appear as shallow trenches that are clothed in grass. There are only sparse areas of brackish flora in the trench bottoms. The marshland floor itself is flat, low lying and prone to flooding in wet weather. Around its perimeter rise steep banks of dumped materials. Although the marshland is still grazed by cattle, there is no sign of recent maintenance of floor and ditches [Vickers D. 1990].

 

A second, much smaller, area that is likely to be ancient marsh is located just west of the council tip and immediately south of the LTSR. It has an area of around 2.2 acres (_ 0.9 ha) but is bisected by Barking Council's (stage one) Renwick Road to Dagenham Dock access road. The remnant is triangular in shape, to the east and south-west side rise banks of tipped materials. The one short drainage ditch within the area seems to have been recently managed and is full of stagnant water and aquatic flora. The site is covered in short, relatively lush grassland that is regularly grazed by cattle [Vickers D. 1990]. Historically the area is just part of the marshland parcel 1512. Like the above parcels it was owned by the  lord of the manor of Barking, but tithed to Eastbury. Over the same 80 year period, cited above, the tenancy changed on at least three occasions (see Appendix D for further information).